Some recipes call for a small amount of pureed potato added for bulk and to retain
Some recipes call for a small amount of pureed potato, added for bulk and to retain a firmer texture But I prefer to do without. If made carefully and slowly, the flesh of the cod, once broken down in a food processor, should absorb all the oil and milk, as if making mayonnaise. Traditionally, brandade - and also the aioli - is made in a pestle and mortar, vigorously (usually by Provencal women), with strong arms. So, if that is how you see yourself, then by all means make it that way.450g/1lb piece, or pieces, of dried salt cod, soaked in several changes of cold water for at least 24hrs5-6 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed4-5tbs warm single cream150-200 mls/5-7fl oz fruity olive oil, heated to just warmjuice of 1 small lemonblack pepper - and I like a dash of Tabasco, tooCover the cod with cold water in a pan, gently bring to the boil, and simmer for about ten minutes. Drain, carefully remove any bones and skin, flake the flesh and put into the bowl of a food processor with the garlic and milk Pulverise for a few seconds, but do not overwork. Now, with the motor running, start to add the oil in a thin steam, stopping from time to time and scraping down the sides with a spatula. When the brandade looks glossy and homogenous, it is ready (if you have not used all the oil, don't worry, it can still be used in something else).
Add the lemon juice and pepper, Tabasco if you are using it, and serve warm, straight away, with some little triangles of bread that have been fried in olive oil until crisp, for dipping.In Italy, where this dish is called baccala mantecato, chopped parsley is stirred in during the final moments. This is a most agreeable addition and one I would advocate, though it is not practised in Provence.Courgettes en persillade, serves 4I made this for lunch once while staying with friends in Provence. I had already bought the courgettes, because they looked good in the market (the only reason to buy anything) and I already had some parsley, breadcrumbs, garlic, lemon and Parmesan - and there was always olive oil lurking. The dish took only a few minutes to prepare, plus a bit of time for the salting. Persillade, in Provence, refers to anything cooked with parsley and garlic, and most usually with breadcrumbs too, to soak up any oil and then turn deliciously crisp and golden.900g/2 lb large courgettes, peeled, de-seeded and cut into half-inch chunksa little saltfor the persillade50g/2oz stale white bread, torn into pieces2 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped1 small bunch flat-leafed parsley, leaves onlygrated rind of half a lemonvery little salt and plenty of freshly ground black pepper3-4tbs olive oilfreshly grated Parmesan (optional)Lightly salt the courgettes and put into a colander to drain for 30 minutes Pre-heat the oven to 475F/ 240C/gas mark 9. Rinse the courgettes briefly and dry thoroughly in a clean tea-towel.
Make the persillade by putting the bread, garlic, parsley leaves and lemon rind into a food processor. Chop briefly, until the ingredients look like pale green breadcrumbs, but do not over work as the mixture may become doughy.Now heat 2-3 tbs of olive oil in a roomy frying pan until very hot, and quickly fry the courgettes so that they take on a little colour, but are not at all "cooked" Tip into an attractive oven-to-table shallow dish. Strew generously with the persillade and drizzle over a little extra olive oil. Put into the oven on the top shelf and bake for about ten minutes until the crust is crisp and golden. Serve straight away with wedges of lemon to squeeze over each serving and a little grated Parmesan if you feel like it.This is a perfect dish for a light lunch, on its own, with nothing else. Well, perhaps a glass of cool Provencal rose might not go amiss.... When Allan Cheesman was transferred from Sainsbury's wine department five years ago, competitors danced on his grave Their rejoicing was premature, however.